Cosmetic composition

ABSTRACT

Disclosed is a cosmetic composition comprising from 0.01 to 9% of film-forming polymer having a contact angle of at least 85° by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 3.5% of fatty compound by weight of the composition and optical particle, wherein the fatty compound is selected from fatty acid, soap, or a mixture thereof.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. Particularly,the composition comprises from 0.01 to 9% of film-forming polymer havinga contact angle of at least 85° by weight of the composition, from 0.01to 3.5% of fatty compound by weight of the composition and opticalparticle, wherein the fatty compound is selected from fatty acid, soap,or a mixture thereof.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Usually, consumers have some skin problems including dryness, wrinklesand fine lines, loose/saggy skin and age spots. Composition comprisingfilm-forming polymer may be one solution for consumers to theseproblems. Film-forming polymer would form a film onto the skin afterapplying topically and bring immediate firming effect to the skin. Somebeneficial agents, for example optical particle and sunscreen agent, mayalso be delivered onto skin surface together with the film-formingpolymer.

There is an increasing interest to develop a skin care compositioncomprising a film-forming polymer.

US patent application with publication number of US 2008/0233075 A1disclosed a topical composition comprising a water-soluble film-formingpolymer, a bimodal copolymer comprising a first polymeric component withanionic functional groups and a second polymeric component with cationicfunctional groups, and one or more biological polymers that are derivedfrom a source selected from the group consisting of animals, plants,algae, fungi, and bacteria or are biotechnologically synthesized. Such atopical composition was said to be applied to saggy or wrinkled skin forenhancing the appearance of the skin.

However, after applying cosmetic composition, the skin may undergo waterwashing and abrasion by hand and therefore the film formed byfilm-forming polymer on the skin may be easily washed away and/or rubbedaway and therefore lose the benefits.

Meanwhile, the beneficial agent would be easily washed off and/or rubbedoff and thus can not provide a long-lasting benefit.

Therefore, the present inventors have recognized a need to develop acosmetic composition with improved wash-off resistance, abrasionresistance, and/or long-lasting deposition of beneficial agent.Therefore, this invention is directed to a cosmetic compositioncomprising from 0.01 to 9% of film-forming polymer having a contactangle of at least 85° by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 3.5% offatty compound by weight of the composition and optical particle,wherein the fatty compound is selected from fatty acid, soap, or amixture thereof.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In a first aspect, the present invention is directed to a cosmeticcomposition comprising from 0.01 to 9% of film-forming polymer having acontact angle of at least 85° by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to3.5% of fatty compound by weight of the composition and opticalparticle, wherein the fatty compound is selected from fatty acid, soap,or a mixture thereof.

In a second aspect, the present invention is directed to a method forimproving skin characteristic comprising the step of topically applyingto skin any embodiment of the first aspect.

In a third aspect, the present invention is directed to use of anyembodiment of the first aspect for improving any attribute selected fromopacity, long-lasting opacity, cumulative deposition of opticalparticle, wash-off resistance, abrasion resistance, or combinationthereof.

All other aspects of the present invention will more readily becomeapparent upon considering the detailed description and examples whichfollow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, allnumbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditionsof reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may optionallybe understood as modified by the word “about”.

All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwisespecified.

It should be noted that in specifying any range of values, anyparticular upper value can be associated with any particular lowervalue.

For the avoidance of doubt, the word “comprising” is intended to mean“including” but not necessarily “consisting of or “composed of”. Inother words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive.

The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered tocover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependentupon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be foundwithout multiple dependency or redundancy.

“Film-forming polymer” as used herein refers to polymer which is capableof forming cohesive and continuous covering over the hair and/or skinwhen applied to their surface.

“Silicone resin” as used herein refers to silicone material which isformed by branched, and/or cage-like oligosiloxanes havingthree-dimensional structure. Typically, the silicone resin is rigid.

“Fatty compound” refers organic compound having a straight-chain withlength of at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably at least 10 carbon atoms.More preferably, the fatty compound has a C₁₀ to C₃₆ straight-chain,even more preferably a C₁₂ to C₂₈ straight-chain.

“Contact angle” (CA), as used herein, means the angle at which awater/vapor interface meets a solid surface at a temperature of 25° C.Such an angle may be measured with a goniometer or other water dropletshape analysis systems with water droplet of 5 μl and at 25° C.

“Melting point” as used herein is the temperature at which it changesstate from solid to liquid at atmospheric pressure. The melting point offatty compound may be measured for example by method in standard of ISO6321-2002.

“Optical particle” refers to particle which can impart opacity to skin.Opacity as used herein will also include masking/reducing blemishes,even skin tone and/or skin lightening. “Refractive index values”referred to herein are those determined at a temperature of 25° C. and awavelength of 589 nm unless otherwise stated.

“Leave-on” as used with reference to compositions herein means acomposition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin, and left thereon.“Wash-off” as used with reference to compositions herein means a skincleanser that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and rinsed offsubstantially immediately subsequent to application. “Skin” as usedherein includes the skin on the face (except eye lids and lips), neck,chest, abdomen, back, arms, underarm area, hands, and legs. Preferably“skin” means skin on the face except eye lids and lips. More preferably,“skin” means skin on cheeks.

In some preferred embodiments, the composition is neither a cosmeticcomposition comprising silicone resin, non-volatile silicone oil, andcosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the non-volatile silicone oilcomprises dimethiconol, aminosilicone or a mixture thereof and theweight ratio of the silicone resin to the non-volatile silicone oil isat least 1:4; nor a cosmetic composition comprising a silicone resin, asteroid, and cosmetically acceptable carrier, wherein the weight ratioof silicone resin to steroid is at least 5:9.

The requirement for film-forming polymer of the present invention isthat the film-forming polymer is suitable for use in cosmeticcomposition. For better performance of wash-off resistance, thefilm-forming polymer preferably has a contact angle of at least 90°,more preferably from 95° to 160°, most preferably from 100° to 120°.

The film-forming polymer may for example comprise silicone resin,chitosan, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the film-formingpolymer comprises silicone resin and most preferably the film-formingpolymer is silicone resin. The silicone resin is typically described bythe following siloxy monomeric units:

The R group may be selected from saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbongroups. Preferably, the silicone resin of the present invention may beselected from siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or a mixture thereof. Morepreferably, the silicone resin comprises M unit, Q unit, T unit orcombination thereof. Even more preferably, the silicone resin comprisesMQ silicone resin, T silicone resin, or a mixture thereof.

In some embodiments, the silicone resin preferably comprises MQ siliconeresin having the formula of [(R₁)₃—Si—O_(1/2)]_(a)—(Si—O_(4/2))_(b),wherein R₁ is mutually identical or different, selected from saturatedhydrocarbon groups. R₁ is preferably selected from C₁ to C₆ alkyl, andmore preferably each R₁ is methyl group. Thus, the more preferred MQsilicone resin is trimethylsiloxysilicate. Preferably, a and bindependently have values ranging from 10 to 1000, and more preferablyfrom 30 to 200.

In another embodiments, the silicone resin preferably comprises Tsilicone resin having the formula of [R₂—Si—O_(3/2)]_(x), wherein R₂ isselected from saturated hydrocarbon groups. R₂ is preferably selectedfrom C₁ to C₆ alkyl, more preferably selected from methyl, ethyl,propyl, butyl, and most preferably propyl. The most preferred T siliconeresin is polypropyl silsesquioxane. Preferably, x is less than 2000,more preferably less than 500, but preferably greater than 10, and morepreferably greater than 50.

In more preferred embodiments, the silicone resin preferably comprises ablend of MQ silicone resin and T silicone resin, the weight ratio of theMQ silicone resin to the T silicone resin is preferably from 1:20 to20:1 in order to achieve better film-forming performance. Morepreferably, the weight ratio of the MQ silicone resin to the T siliconeresin is from 1:10 to 10:1, even more preferably from 1:5 to 5:1.

Exemplary silicone resin suitable for the present invention includes DowCorning™ MQ-1640 Flake Resin, a blend of MQ and T Propyl resins, DowCorning™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin, a 100% active MQ resin, Dow Corning™ 670Fluid, Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Polypropylsilsesquioxane supplied by DowCorning.

Preferably, the film-forming polymer is present in the composition inamount of from 0.05 to 8% by weight of the composition, more preferablyfrom 0.3 to 7%, even more preferably from 0.8 to 5%, and most preferablyfrom 1 to 4% by weight of the composition.

The fatty acid typically contains fatty acid mdeties with chain lengthsof from C10 to C30. In certain preferred embodiments, the hydrocarbonchain length of the fatty acid used is from 12 to 24, more preferably 14to 20, even more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Suitable fatty acidcomprises pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, isopalmitic, stearic,isostearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachiolic, behenic, erucicacid or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the fatty acid comprisesstearic, lauric, palmitic, isostearic, myristic acid, or a mixturethereof. Even more preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid, palmiticacid or a mixture thereof.

Although normally saturated, suitable fatty acid may contain unsaturatedfatty acid moieties, and may contain fatty acid moieties having a degreeof substitution, such as e.g. hydroxy fatty acids. It is preferred thatthe fatty acid comprises saturated fatty acid, saturated fatty acidhaving a degree of substitution, or a combination thereof. Morepreferably, the fatty acid comprises saturated is selected fromsaturated fatty acid, saturated fatty acid having a degree ofsubstitution, or a combination thereof. Even more preferably, the fattyacid is saturated fatty acid.

Soap of the present invention is preferably a salt of a C₁₀-C₃₀ fattyacid, more preferably C₁₂-C₂₄ fatty acid, even more preferably C₁₄-C₂₀fatty acid and most preferably C₁₆-C₁₈ fatty acid. Suitable soapcomprises pelargonate, laurate, myristate, palmitate, stearate,isostearate, oleate, linoleate, ricinoleate, arachidate, behenate,erucate salt or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the fatty acid saltcomprises stearate, laurate, palmitate, isostearate salt or a mixturethereof. Even more preferably, the fatty acid salt is stearate salt,palmitate salt or a mixture thereof.

Preferably the soap is selected from ammonium salt, alkali metal salt ormixture thereof. More preferably, the soap is sodium and/or potassiumsalt, and most preferably sodium salt. When the fatty compound comprisesfatty acid and soap, it is preferred the fatty compound comprises fattyacid and salt thereof. More preferably the fatty compound is acombination of fatty acid and salt thereof.

The fatty compound is preferably present in the composition in amount offrom 0.01 to 3.3% by weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.7to 3%, even more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5% by weight of thecomposition.

For better performance of wash-off resistance, and/or long-lastingopacity, the weight ratio of film-forming polymer to fatty compound ispreferably from 50:1 to 1:10, more preferably from 10:1 to 1:2, evenmore preferably from 5:1 to 1:1, and most preferably from 4:1 to 2:1.

The cosmetic composition also comprises optical particle. Without beingbound to any particular theory or explanation, the present inventorsbelieve that optical particles would be embedded into the film byfilm-forming polymer and fatty compound. Therefore, the opticalparticles are able to resist water and/or friction and deliver thelong-lasting opacity to the skin.

The optical particles are typically particles of high refractive indexmaterials. For example the optical particles may have a refractive indexof greater than 1.3, more preferably greater than 1.7 and mostpreferably from 2.0 to 2.7. Examples of such optical particles are thosecomprising bismuth oxy-chloride, boron nitride, barium sulfate, mica,silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxide, aluminium oxide,zinc oxide or combinations thereof. More preferred particles areparticles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide,mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof. Even more preferred particlesare particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxideor a combination thereof as these materials have especially highrefractive index. Most preferred is titanium dioxide.

For sake of good compatibility with the film-forming polymer and/orfatty compound, the optical particle is preferably hydrophobic. Morepreferably, the optical particle is preferably hydrophobically modified.Even more preferably the optical particle is modified by hydrophobicmaterial selected from fatty acid, silicone oil, wax, and a mixturethereof. The fatty acid preferably comprises oleic acid, stearic acid,or a mixture thereof.

The size of optical particle is typical from 2 nm to 5 microns, morepreferably from 5 nm to 1 micron, even more preferably from 10 nm to 500nm. Particle size as used herein refers to the diameter of particles inan unaggregated state. Diameter means the largest measureable distanceon a particle in the event a well-defined sphere is not generated. Thediameter may be measured for example by scanning electron microscopy(SEM) by averaging the value of at least ten particles.

Preferably the composition comprises optical particles in an amount offrom 0.001 to 10 wt %, more preferably 0.01 to 7 wt %, more preferablystill 0.05 to 5 wt % and most preferably 0.1 to 2 wt %. The weight ratioof the film-forming polymer to the optical particle is preferably in therange of from 1:10 to 50:1, more preferably from 1:3 to 10:1, and mostpreferably from 1:1 to 5:1. The weight ratio of the fatty compound tothe optical particle is preferably in the range of from 1:40 to 20:1,more preferably from 1:20 to 10:1, and most preferably from 1:10 to 5:1.

Compositions of the present invention may also include at least 20% ofwater by weight of the composition. Preferably, the amounts of water isat least 40%, more preferably range from more preferably from 50 to 90%,optimally between 60 and 85% by weight of the composition. Preferablythe weight ratio of water to wax is from 1:1 to 1000:1, more preferablyfrom 5:1 to 200:1, and most preferably from 15:1 to 60:1.

Emollient materials may be included as carriers in compositions of thisinvention. These may be in the form of silicone oils, synthetic estersand/or hydrocarbons. Amounts of the emollients may range, for example,anywhere from 0.1 to 95%, more preferably between 1 and 50% by weight ofthe composition.

Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety.The term “volatile” as used herein refers to those materials which havea measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25° C.). Volatilesilicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) orlinear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4to 5, silicon atoms. In many liquid versions of compositions accordingto the present invention, the volatile silicone oils may form arelatively large component of the compositions as carriers. Amounts mayrange, for example, from 5% to 80%, more preferably from 20% to 70% byweight of the composition.

Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material includepolyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxanecopolymers. The essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes usefulherein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities offrom about 5×10⁻⁸ to 0.1 m²/s at 25° C. Among the preferred nonvolatileemollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethylsiloxanes having viscosities from about 1×10⁻⁵ to about 4×10⁻⁴ m²/s at25° C.

Organopolysiloxane crosspolymers can be usefully employed.Representative of these materials are dimethicone/vinyl dimethiconecrosspolymers and dimethicone crosspolymers available from a variety ofsuppliers including Dow Corning (9040, 9041, 9045, 9506 and 9509),General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16 and 18[dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and GrantIndustries (Gransil brand of materials), and lauryl dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu (e.g. KSG-31, KSG-32,KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44). Amounts of the aforementionedorganopolysiloxane crosspolymers (when present) will usually be from 0.1to 20% by weight dissdved usually in a volatile silicone oil such ascyclomethicone.

When silicones are present in large amounts as carrier and water is alsopresent, the systems may be oil continuous. These normally will requireemulsification with a water-in-oil emulsifier such as a dimethiconecopolyol (e.g. Abil EM-90 which is cetyl dimethicone copolyol).

Among the ester emollients are:

-   -   a) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon        atoms. Examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate,        isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl        isonanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate,        and oleyl oleate.    -   b) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty        alcohols.    -   c) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Butylene glycol, ethylene glycol        mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and        di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and        di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid        esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene        glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol        monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters,        polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl        mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene        glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester,        sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty        acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.        Particularly useful are pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane and        neopentyl glycol esters of C₁-C₃₀ alcohols. Exemplative is        pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.    -   d) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin        wax.    -   e) Sterols esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are        examples thereof.    -   f) Sugar ester of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and        sucrose polycottonseedate.

Of particular use also are the C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate esters sold underthe Finsolv brand.

Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers includepetrolatum, mineral oil, C₁₁-C₁₃ isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, andespecially isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyl 101A fromPresperse Inc.

Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type can be employed ascosmetically acceptable carriers. Typical polyhydric alcohols includepolyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and theirderivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof,sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol,isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol,propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of humectant mayrange, for example, anywhere from 0.5 to 50%, more preferably between 1and 15% by weight of the composition. Most preferred is glycerol (alsoknown as glycerin). Amounts of glycerin may range, for example, from 1%to 50%, more preferably from 10 to 35%, optimally from 15 to 30% byweight of the composition.

Besides optical particles, the compositions of this invention mayinclude a variety of other functional ingredients. Sunscreen actives maybe included in compositions of the present invention. These will beorganic compounds having at least one chromophoric group absorbingwithin the ultraviolet ranging from 290 to 400 nm. Chromophoric organicsunscreen agents may be divided into the following categories (withspecific examples) including: p-Aminobenzoic acid, its salts and itsderivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoicacid); Anthranilates (o-aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl,phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); Salicylates(octyl, amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and dipropyleneglycolesters); Cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters,alpha-phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate);Dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone,methylaceto-umbelliferone); Trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives(esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin anddaphnin); Hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); Dibenzalacetoneand benzalacetophenone; Naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic and of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids);Dihydroxy-naphthoic acid and its salts; o- andp-Hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; Coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy,7-methyl, 3-phenyl); Diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenylbenzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzodiazoles); Quininesalts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); Quinolinederivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); Hydroxy- ormethoxy-substituted benzophenones; Uric and vilouric acids; Tannic acidand its derivatives (e.g., hexaethylether); (Butyl carbityl) (6-propylpiperonyl) ether; Hydroquinone; Benzophenones (Oxybenzone,Sulisobenzone, Dioxybenzone, Benzoresorcinol,2,2′,4,4′-Tetrahydroxybenzophenone,2,2′-Dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone, Octabenzone;4-Isopropyldibenzoylmethane; Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; Etocrylene;and 4-isopropyl-dibenzoylmethane). Particularly useful are: 2-ethylhexylp-methoxycinnamate, 4,4′-t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid,oligalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl4-[bis(hydroxypropyl)]aminobenzoate,2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate,glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate,methylanthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate,2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonicacid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfoniobenzoxazoic acid and mixturesthereof.

Particularly preferred are such materials as ethylhexylp-methoxycinnamate, available as Parsol MCX®, Avobenzone, available asParsol 1789®, Dermablock OS® (octylsalicylate) and Mexoryl SX® (withINCI name of Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid).

Amounts of the organic sunscreen agent may range, for example, from 0.1to 15%, more preferably from 0.5% to 10%, optimally from 1% to 8% byweight of the composition.

A variety of thickening agents may be included in the compositions.Illustrative but not limiting are stearic acid, Acrylamide/SodiumAcryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Aristoflex AVC), HydroxyethylAcrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Aluminum StarchOctenyl Succinate, Polyacrylates (such as Carbomers including Carbopol®980, Carbopol® 1342, Pemulen TR-2® and the Ultrez® thickeners),Polysaccharides (including xanthan gum, guar gum, pectin, carageenan andsclerotium gums), celluloses (including carboxymethyl cellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxymethyl cellulose),minerals (including talc, silica, alumina, mica and clays, the latterbeing represented by bentonites, hectorites and attapulgites), magnesiumaluminum silicate and mixtures thereof. Amounts of the thickeners mayrange, for example, from 0.05 to 10%, more preferably from 0.3 to 2% byweight of the composition.

Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the cosmeticcompositions of this invention to protect against the growth ofpotentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservativesfor compositions of this invention are alkyl esters ofpara-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more recentlycome into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and avariety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Cosmetic chemists are familiarwith appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy thepreservative challenge test and to provide product stability.Particularly preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben,propyl paraben, butyl paraben, isobutyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea,sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should beselected having regard for the use of the composition and possibleincompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in thecomposition. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts rangingfrom 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.

Compositions of the present invention may also contain vitamins andflavondds. Illustrative water-soluble vitamins are Niacinamide, VitaminB₂, Vitamin B₆, Vitamin C, ascorbyl phosphate and Biotin. Among theuseful water-insoluble vitamins are Vitamin A (retinol), Vitamin APalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin E (tocopherol), Vitamin EAcetate and L-panthenol. A particularly suitable Vitamin B₆ derivativeis Pyridoxine Palmitate. Among the preferred flavonoids are glucosylhesperidin and rutin. Total amount of vitamins or flavonoids whenpresent in compositions according to the present invention may range,for example, from 0.001 to 10%, more preferably from 0.01% to 5%,optimally from 0.1 to 3% by weight of the composition.

Desquamation agents are further optional components. Illustrative arethe alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids andsalts of these acids. Among the former are salts of glycolic acid,lactic acid and malic acid. Salicylic acid is representative of thebeta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. Amounts of these materials when presentmay range from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the composition.

A variety of herbal extracts may optionally be included in compositionsof this invention. Illustrative are pomegranate, white birch (BetulaAlba), green tea, chamomile, licorice, boswellia serrata, olive (OleaEuropaea) leaf, arnica montana flower, lavandula angustifolia, andextract combinations thereof. The extracts may either be water solubleor water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively ishydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extractsolvents.

Miscellaneous other adjunct cosmetic ingredients that may be suitablefor the present compositions include ceramides (e.g. Ceramide 3 andCeramide 6), conjugated linoleic acids, colorants (e.g. iron oxides),metal (manganese, copper and/or zinc) gluconates, allantoin, palmitoylpentapeptide-3, amino acids (e.g. alanine, arginine, glycine, lysine,proline, serine, threonine, glumatic acid and mixtures thereof),trimethylglycine, sodium PCA, chelator like disodium EDTA, magnesiumaspartate, and combinations thereof. Amounts may, for example, vary from0.000001 to 3% by weight of the composition.

A small amount of emulsifying surfactant may be present. Surfactants maybe anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric and mixtures thereof. Levelsmay range, for example, from 0.1 to 5%, more preferably from 0.1 to 2%,optimally from 0.1 to 1% by weight. Advantageously the amount ofsurfactant present should not be sufficient for lather formation. Inthese instances, less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1%, andoptimally less than 0.5% by weight surfactant is present. Emulsifierslike PEG-100 stearate may be used as well as emulsion stabilizers likecetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20 may be used and typically in amountsthat do not exceed 5 percent by weight of the composition.

Other optional additives suitable for use in the composition of thisinvention include cationic ammonium compounds to enhance moisturization.Such compounds include salts of hydroxypropyltri (C₁-C₃ alkyl) ammoniummono-substituted-saccharide, salts of hydroxypropyltri (C₁-C₃ alkyl)ammonium mono-substituted polyols, dihydroxypropyltri (C₁-C₃ alkyl)ammonium salts, dihydroxypropyldi (C₁-C₃ alkyl) mono(hydroxyethyl)ammonium salts, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium salts, 2,3-dihydroxypropyltri(C₁-C3 alkyl or hydroxalkyl) ammonium salts or mixtures thereof. In amost preferred embodiment and when desired, the cationic ammoniumcompound employed in this invention is the quaternary ammonium compound1,2-dihydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. If used, such compounds typicallymake up from 0.01 to 30%, and more preferably from about 0.1 to about15% by weight of the composition.

When cationic ammonium compounds are used, optional additives for usewith the same are moisturizing agents such as substituted ureas likehydroxymethyl urea, hydroxyethyl urea, hydroxypropyl urea;bis(hydroxymethyl)urea; bis(hydroxyethyl)urea; bis(hydroxypropyl)urea;N,N′-dihydroxymethyl urea; N,N′-di-hydroxyethyl urea;N,N′-di-hydroxypropyl urea; N,N,N′-tri-hydroxyethyl urea;tetra(hydroxymethyl)urea; tetra(hydroxyethyl)urea;tetra(hydroxypropyl)urea; N-methyl-N′-hydroxyethyl urea;N-ethyl-N′-hydroxyethyl urea; N-hydroxypropyl-N′-hydroxyethyl urea andN,N′dimethyl-N-hydroxyethyl urea or mixtures thereof. Where the termhydroxypropyl appears, the meaning is generic for either3-hydroxy-n-propyl, 2-hydroxy-n-propyl, 3-hydroxy-i-propyl or2-hydroxy-i-propyl radicals. Most preferred is hydroxyethyl urea. Thelatter is available as a 50% aqueous liquid from AkzoNobel under thetrademark Hydrovance. Such substituted ureas, while desirable inmoisturizing formulations, are only selected for use when compatiblewith sunless tanning agent or agents (when used) in the compositions ofthis invention.

Amounts of substituted urea, when used, in the composition of thisinvention range from 0.01 to 20%, more preferably from 0.5 to 15%, andmost preferably from 2 to 10% based on total weight of the compositionand including all ranges subsumed therein.

When cationic ammonium compound and substituted urea are used, in a mostespecially preferred embodiment at least from 0.01 to 25%, morepreferably from 0.2 to 20%, and most preferably from 1 to 15% humectant,like glycerine, is used, based on total weight of the composition andincluding all ranges subsumed therein.

When making the compositions of this invention, ingredients aretypically mixed with moderate shear under atmospheric conditions. Thecompositions may be applied topically and preferably 1-4 milligrams ofcomposition is applied per square centimeter of skin. Preferably, thecompositions display a pH from 5 to 7. Packaging for the composition ofthis invention can be a jar or tube as well as any other formattypically seen for cosmetic, cream, washing and lotion type products.

It is preferred that the composition is a skin care composition. Thecomposition may be a leave-on composition or a wash-off composition, butpreferably a leave-on composition.

The invention also concerns a method for improving skin characteristiccomprising the step of topically applying to skin the cosmeticcomposition of the invention as described. Skin characteristic as usedherein refers to features used to evaluate skin, include but not limitto skin firming, opacity, smoothness, cleanliness, moistening, or acombination thereof. Preferably, the skin characteristics comprise skinfirming, opacity, or a combination thereof. More preferably the skincharacteristic is long-lasting opacity and most preferably, the skincharacteristic is long-lasting whitening. “Long-lasting” refers to thebeneficial agent (for example optical particle) remains at least 30%,preferably at least 50% after flushing by tap water (25° C.) for 1minute.

The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding ofthe invention. The examples are not intended to limit the scope of theclaims.

EXAMPLES

Wash-Off/Abrasion Resistance Test

1. Constructing a Calibration Curve

The base formulation (sample A in Table 1) was coated evenly ontoBio-skin plate (Color: 30#, ex. BEAULAX, Co. Ltd., Tokyo, Japan) withsurface density of 0, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 5, and 6 mg/cm².After naturally drying at around 25° C. for 8 hours, the L (forlightness), a, and b (for the color-opponent dimensions) of these coatedBio-skin plates was measured using Digieye Imaging System (Verivide,UK). The ITA value was calculated by equation ofITA=[arctan(L−50/b)]×180/π. Then the ITA value versus surface densitywas plotted and fitted by a polynomial model to obtain the curve. TheR-Square was higher than 0.999 which demonstrated that the polynomialmodel was suitable to fit the functional relationship between thelightness and the surface density of the base formulation.

2. Wash-Off/Abrasion Experiment

30 mg of samples was coated evenly onto Bio-skin plates with area of 10cm². The coated bio-skin was naturally dried at around 25° C. for 8hours. The L, a, and b of the Bio-skin plate were measured by DigieyeImaging System (Verivide, UK). The ITA value (ITA₁) was calculatedaccording to the above equation. The surface density value beforewash-off/abrasion experiment (SD₁) was obtained according to thecalibration curve. The coated bio-skin was soaked into de-ionized waterfor 30 s. Then, a commercial face cleanser (Pond's gold radiance™Radiance Boosting Cleansing Mousse) with amount of 5 mg/cm² was appliedonto the Bio-skin plate and the coated Bio-skin plate was washed byMartindale abrasion and pilling tester (Type: M235, SDL Altas, USA) with33.72g of motion plate at the speed of 30 rpm for 1 min. Subsequently,the coated Bio-skin plate was soaked into water for another 1 min andwashed by de-ionized water. After naturally drying at around 25° C. for2 hours, the L, a, and b of the Bio-skin plate were measured again byDigieye Imaging System and the ITA value of the Bio-skin plate (ITA₂)was calculated. The surface density after wash-off/abrasion experiment(SD₂) was obtained according to the calibration curve.

The deposition ratio after wash-off/abrasion experiment was calculatedby:

Deposition ratio=(SD ₂ /SD ₁)×100%.

Measurement of Contact Angle and Water Soaking Test

The contact angles of five film-forming polymers including Dow Corning™MQ-1640 Flake Resin, Dow Corning™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin, Dow Corning™ 670Fluid from Dow Corning, Avalure™ UR450 from Lubrizol, Lexorez™ 100 fromIndex were conducted. Dow Corning™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin and Dow Corning™670 Fluid were dispersed into dimethicone with a polymer to solventweight ratio of 1:9. The other three polymers were dispersed intoethanol with a polymer to solvent weight ratio of 1:9.

0.2 ml of film-forming polymer dispersions were dripped evenly onto anordinary glass sides (about 2 cm×8 cm). After the solvents evaporated,uniform films were formed. Drop shape analysis system 100 (DSA 100,Krüss) was used to measure contact angle using deionised water drops ofaround 5 μL applied to five different points of each film. The contactangle averaged over all 5 drops.

The contact angles of Dow Corning™ MQ-1640 Flake Resin, Dow Corning™MQ-1600 Solid Resin, Dow Corning™ 670, Avalure™ UR450, and Lexorez™ 100were 107°, 116°, 114°, 66°, and 28° respectively.

Then, these glass slides coated with polymer films were immersed fullyinto water for 30 minutes. After that the glass slides were taken outfrom water and dried. The contact angles of these glass slides weremeasured again. It was surprisingly found that the contact angles ofglass slides coated by Avalure™ UR450, and Lexorez™ 100 were decreasedto less than 15°, indicating that the polymer film has been peeled off.In contrast, the contact angle of glass slides coated by Dow Corning™MQ-1640 Flake Resin, Dow Corning™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin, and Dow Corning™670 remained almost the same, manifesting that the polymer films wereadhered onto the glass slides firmly.

Example 1

This example demonstrates the inclusion of fatty acid in differentamount into the compositions with different film-forming polymersimproved the wash-off resistance of the compositions.

A series of cosmetic compositions were formulated as shown in Table 1below.

The formulations were prepared by the following process. The opticalparticles were completely dispersed in the oil phase with otheringredients and the silicone resin and/or fatty compound (when present)mixed thoroughly. The resulting oil-based mixture was gradually added tothe aqueous phase. The resulting mixture was emulsified under 9,000 rpmof shear stress for 10 minutes at 65° C. and gradually stirred andcooled to room temperature.

The deposition ratios of the samples were measured by following theWash-off/abrasion resistance performance test.

TABLE 1 Ingredient Samples (wt %) A B C 1 2 3 4 5 Water Bal. Bal. Bal.Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal. Disodium 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.100.10 EDTA PEG-100 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 1.85 Stearate (Myij59 P) Glyceryl 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 stearateCaprylic/Capric 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 TriglyceridesAristoflex 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 AVC UL Cyclomethi-8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 cone/DC 245 Preservative 0.200.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Titanium 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.001.00 1.00 1.00 dioxide ^(a) Silicone — 3.00 — 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 —resin-1 ^(b) Silicone — — 3.00 — — — — 3.00 resin-2 ^(c) Stearicacid^(d) — — — 0.50 1.00 2.00 3.00 1.00 ^(a) MT700Z, Titanium Dioxide(and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminium Hydroxide supplied by TAYCA ^(b) DowCorning ™ MQ-1640 Flake Resin, a blend of MQ and T Propyl resins,supplied by Dow Corning. ^(c) Dow Corning ™ MQ-1600 Solid Resin, a 100%active MQ resin, supplied by Dow Corning. ^(d)Supplied by EmeryOleochemicals (M) Sdn. Bhd.

As can be seen in Table 2, with the addition of fatty acid into thecomposition with different silicone resins, the deposition ratios afterwash-off test for all compositions (samples 1 to 5) were increased. Itwas found that the inclusion of fatty acid of the present inventionunexpectedly improved the wash-off resistance, rub resistance, and thelong-lasting deposition of optical particles.

It was also surprisingly found that even lower levels of fatty acid(sample 1 and 2) can induce similar deposition ratio as higher levels offatty acid (sample 3). It was also found that the fatty acid can improvethe deposition ratio of composition containing silicone-1 more than thatof the composition containing silicone-2.

TABLE 2 Silicone Silicone Stearic Deposition resin-1 resin-2 acid RatioSample (wt %) (wt %) (wt %) (%) B 3.00 0 0 61.5 ± 3.1 C 0 3.00 0 30.1 ±2.6 1 3.00 0 0.50 69.3 ± 1.6 2 3.00 0 1.00 73.8 ± 2.1 3 3.00 0 2.00 85.6± 6.3 4 3.00 0 3.00 72.5 ± 2.3 5 0 3.00 1.00 35.5 ± 2.0

Example 2

This example demonstrates the inclusion of different fatty acids intothe compositions with film-forming polymer improved the wash-offresistance of the compositions.

The formulations in Table 3 were prepared and the deposition ratios weretested by the following similar procedures as described in Example 1.

TABLE 3 Samples Ingredient (wt %) 6 7 8 9 10 Water Bal. Bal. Bal. Bal.Bal. Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 PEG-100 Stearate 1.85 1.851.85 1.85 1.85 (Myij 59 P) Glyceryl stearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00Caprylic/Capric 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Triglycerides Aristoflex AVC UL1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cyclomethicone/DC 245 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00Preservative 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Titanium dioxide ^(a) 1.00 1.001.00 1.00 1.00 Silicone resin-1 ^(b) 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Lauricacid^(c) 1.00 — — — — Myristic acid^(c) — 1.00 — — — Palmitic acid^(c) —— 1.00 — — Oleic acid^(c) — — — 1.00 — 12-hydroxy stearic acid^(d) — — —— 1.00 Deposition Ratio (%) 71.6 ± 72.1 ± 72.6 ± 71.6 ± 68.3 ± 2.5 3.32.9 1.9 3.0 ^(a) MT700Z, Titanium Dioxide (and) Stearic Acid (and)Aluminium Hydroxide supplied by TAYCA ^(b) Dow Corning ™ MQ-1640 FlakeResin, a blend of MQ and T Propyl resins, supplied by Dow Corning.^(c)Supplied by Emery Oleochemicals (M) Sdn. Bhd. ^(d)Supplied byVertellus Performance Materials Inc.

As shown in the last row of Table 3, the deposition ratios ofcomposition containing both film-forming polymer and different fattyacids had been increased over composition merely containing film-formingpolymer. It was manifested that the incorporation of different fattyacids improved wash-off resistance and therefore long-lasting whitening.It was also surprisingly found that the fatty acid without substitutionimproved wash-off resistance more than the fatty acid with a degree ofsubstitution.

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: a) from 0.01 to 9% of film-formingpolymer having a contact angle of at least 85° by weight of thecomposition; b) from 0.01 to 3.5% of fatty compound by weight of thecomposition; and c) from 0.001 to 7% of optical particle by weight ofthe composition, wherein the fatty compound is selected from fatty acid,soap, or a mixture thereof.
 2. The composition according to claim 1wherein the film-forming polymer is silicone resin, preferably thesilicone resin is selected from MQ silicone resin, T silicone resin, ora mixture thereof.
 3. The composition according to claim 2 heroinwherein the silicone resin is selected from trimethylsiloxy silicate,polypropyl silsesquioxane, or a combination thereof, preferably thesilicone resin is mixture of trimethylsiloxy silicate and polypropylsilsesquioxane.
 4. The composition according to claim 1 wherein theamount of film-forming polymer is from 0.3 to 7% by weight of thecomposition.
 5. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the fattyacid is C₁₂ to C₂₄ fatty acid.
 6. The composition according to claim 5wherein the fatty acid comprises stearic acid, lauric acid, palmiticacid, isostearic acid, myristic acid or a mixture thereof, preferablystearic acid.
 7. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the soapis the salt of C₁₂ to C₂₄ fatty acid.
 8. The composition according toclaim 1 wherein the weight ratio of film-forming polymer to the fattycompound is from 10:1 to 1:2.
 9. The composition according to claim 1wherein the optical particle comprises titanium dioxide, zinc oxide,zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof.
 10. Thecomposition according to claim 1 wherein the composition comprises atleast 20% of water by weight of the composition.
 11. A method forimproving skin characteristic comprising the step of topically applyingto skin the composition of claim
 1. 12. The composition of claim 1wherein the composition further comprises sunscreen, niacinamide,Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin E acetate or silicone oil.